20th November, Koh Phi Phi, Thailand
'There's no way you can keep it out of Lonely Planet, and once that happens it's countdown to doomsday.'
- So said Richard in Alex Garland's book, The Beach.
The story describes how a group of backpackers try to escape the commercialised side to Thailand and set off to find their own piece of paradise. The story is set in Thailand's Ang Thong National Marine Park, which is near to Koh Samui. It was later made into a blockbuster movie starring Leonardo DiCaprio. Except it was not filmed on the Marine Park but an island near to Krabi. Ao Maya (Maya Bay) on Phi Phi Ley Island to be precise. Koh Phi Phi is made up of two islands; the more commercialised Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Ley where day-trippers visit. And this is where our group was headed for today.
When 20th Century Fox turned up on location, many protestors expressed their concerns about what impact filming would have on the island. Truth be told, the film production company probably did the bay more good than harm. Even before filming could commence, as much as four tonnes of rubbish had to be removed from the marred shores of Ao Maya. Rubbish accumulated from long-term abuse of holidaymakers and the not so eco-friendly dynamite fishing activities that took place here. Extra palm trees were also planted to complete the 'paradise island' ambiance, which can only positively add to the island's charm in the long run.
The Beach on Maya Bay, Phi Phi Ley Island.
We arrived by big boat in not quite an unorthodox a manner as Richard, Étienne and Françoise (the main characters in the book) had done. As we pulled up into the bay, it was unsurprising to see that we were not the only tourists here either. The place was teeming with boats and their quota of snorkellers paddling nearby. The water was lovely and warm and even though it was snorkeller-soup, we still had a good time.
What was slightly disconcerting to see at first was the clear plastic bags floating freely near the surface - I initially thought they were jellyfish. But then it dawned on us that old tactics die hard and the waters have reverted to their original state prior to filming. Once more, filled with litter, the bay contains a collection of items that people have jettisoned. I even spotted a straw sombrero and a pair of red shorts. Despite the mess, there were many fish swimming happily amongst the living coral.
At twice the cost of yesterday's 4-islands-trip, today's day trip to the Phi Phi islands seemed extravagant. It was definitely more enjoyable and less tiring though. Instead of being escorted to Ao Nang beach (where the boats depart from) by a noisy songthaew (open air taxi), we were taken by air-con minibus. Instead of visiting the islands by basic long-tailed boats, we cruised along luxuriously in an air-con big boat. Instead of eating take-away food on a beach, we dined in a very nice buffet restaurant on Phi Phi Don Island. It was a nice change and I'm glad we did the trips this way around!
Lunch break on Phi Phi Don Island.
After lunch, we stopped off at Bamboo Island for another dip in the Andaman Sea. This place is excellent for snorkelling and there were definitely fewer tourists here. The coral and variety of fish came close to what we had seen in The Great Barrier Reef and Naviti in Fiji. The water was very clear and warm. It was a shame we had forgotten to bring our underwater camera. You'll have to take our word for it!
Bamboo Island.
So was Richard correct in predicting doomsday for The Beach? I think he was you know. I guess everyone is trying to look for their piece of paradise even if it means that paradise is paying the ultimate price (said so in a Jerry Springer final thoughts kind of way!).